As it’s two months since Christmas now, I guess it’s about time to take the Christmas cards down…
Our excuse is that we didn’t even see most of them until after twelfth night – not because of any inefficiency on the part of our friends, I hasten to add. Possibly something to do with Eid, or maybe just because of the dates the PO box is emptied. In any case, it was a lovely welcome home from our holiday!
Oh dear, I never did blog about our New Year adventures, did I? Holidaying in the midst of civil insurrection, as a friend described it! It’s all rather old news now, I’m afraid. It’s a good story (I like it!), so I’m going to tell it, anyway. And it’s up to you to read it or not, as you like! J
Zanzibar welcomed us with a clapped-out banger with an empty fuel tank for our hire car, and a petrol station that informed us it would be empty for the next four hours. An inauspicious start… (but how nice to be given the chance to use the word “inauspicious”!) The holiday got rapidly better once we changed our vehicle for one slightly less clapped out, got some petrol and got on our way!
We had a relaxing stay on the island, with a room for two nights which opened out straight onto the beach. Our first family beach holiday! I have a great photo of M sitting in the shade with his computer, his coffee and little G, which was of course much more his thing than making sandcastles with the girls as I’d been doing… We went dolphin-spotting and had great views of the rarer, shyer variety, but didn’t see any of the more friendly bottle-nose ones! Bit more special than the other way round, wouldn’t you say? Decided to leave snorkelling for a few years, although E and R both got out of the boat for a little swim in the sea with Daddy (while Mummy held tightly to little G…)
Lots of good cafes and restaurants dominate the rest of my memories of Zanzibar (including seeing the new year in in a restaurant on the beach – sounds good, except that the table and chairs were nowhere near level and the tide was worryingly close! Anyway, being middle-aged before my time, I went to bed at 11!) And then it was on to Kenya…
Kenya was a great holiday in many ways. I wouldn’t choose to go somewhere that’s in post-election unrest, but given we were already there before we were aware of it, we made the most of our time. Most people, as you will know, had cancelled their trips, but there was no danger in the national parks and safari parks, so we had most places almost to ourselves. The level of service was great (we stayed in the presidential suite in two parks because of a booking problem with our rooms!); we had hotel swimming pools to ourselves; and the food was fantastic – mainly buffets with a huge variety and active cooking corners (choose your ingredients and watch them cook it). Plenty of plain yoghurt and fruit to mash for G, so he ate much better than E and R have on holidays at his age!
Sorry, I’m going on about food again. We did have a lot of travelling in our itinerary (that will come as no surprise to most of my readers) – and some of the roads were very slow-going – bumpy, pot-holey. And then of course, there was The Adventure…
Part 1
You may have heard that there were road-blocks around. Well, we encountered one rock in the middle of the road that may have been part of a road-block. M risked driving over it, since the road was quite screey and we’d skidded half a mile previously, turning right round and nearly coming off the road. Instantly, he realised the misjudgement from the sound it made on the bottom of the car, but it was only half a mile on that we realised the full implications, when the car stalled and would not restart. A quick glance underneath revealed the oil had all gone.
Ok, pan out and survey the scene. It is already dusk and we have quite a way still to go (we have come the long way round to avoid some trouble). We haven’t noticed many other cars; understandably, it’s been quite quiet on the roads. We can’t see signs of civilisation and there is no reception on our mobiles. R has a dirty nappy; the children will all soon be hungry; we have a little food and not much water.
Could have been horrible, couldn’t it? It was a moment to remember, watching M walk away up the road in search of help! Fortunately, our friend A was on holiday with us – and he’s a good calming influence to have on such an occasion (not to mention the one in part 2!). And within twenty minutes, cars had driven past and offered to tow us, M had found a signal, phoned the hire car company who promised a replacement car from Nairobi (4 hours’ drive away), found help and brought back men with a truck from a farm just over the brow of the hill.
We were soon towed (on an extremely short rope – more difficult driving for M!) to the farm, where the manager and his wife made us welcome in their home, along with their five-year-old daughter and days-old baby. They were very kind in an unfussy, understated way; and chatting to them about what was happening in their country, eating dinner with them, drinking ginger tea made with hot milk, not water, looking round their room at certificates on the wall, next to posters with inspirational scenes and Bible verses, the lino flooring, the TV quietly reporting the news in the corner (later they put on a DVD of Kenyan wildlife for us) – all this gave us a glimpse at Kenya away from the tourist trail.
We were put up in the farm guesthouse for the night – a very cold, wooden hut that nonetheless had everything we needed and more – a living room, kitchen, bathroom (where I had a most unpleasant encounter with a flying cockroach. I managed to convince myself it was a big moth until I had got it outside… and then shuddered repeatedly for the next few minutes!), two bedrooms, each with two double beds and plenty of blankets. Back to the farmhouse in the morning for eggs and more hot milk (the managers are given five litres of milk a day and all other workers get two litres a day in addition to their wages – I read recently that Kenyans drink more milk than any other developing country).
More kindness: the driver with the replacement hire car had set off as soon as he could the previous evening and had stayed overnight about ten miles down the road. So we were quickly on our way – although still behind schedule and with a long day’s drive ahead. And unaware that the adventure was not over yet.
But part 2 will have to wait for another day, I think… I hadn’t realised how much I’d write! I wish I could emulate jackthelass’s blog and have photos to show you of some of this, but even if we’d thought to take some, I’m not sure I’d be able to get them on the page, the right size for you to see!